What to Expect: Peels
Chemical peels are not a fresher discovery in skincare, but we have learned how to use this treatment more safely.
The strengths of chemical peels are classified into superficial, medium, and deep peels. Among these strengths, superficial is the safest and most gentle option for most, including those with sensitive skin or people of color.
The superficial peel is the type of treatment you can receive on a lunch break and return to work not emulating that episode of Sex and the City when Samantha received her terrifying chemical peel. If you don’t understand the reference, the painfully red skin would more likely be experienced when getting a deep chemical peel.
Deep chemical peels are rarer nowadays as they tend to be very intense and are used to treat more serious conditions rather than more common skin concerns. Deep peels are said to bring more sensitivity, pigmentation, and scarring to the skin due to the pH level and how far it penetrates the skin. That being said, you would likely not add on a deep peel to your facial. Thus the reason superficial peels should be your ultimate chemical peel, whether you’re new to peels, have sensitive skin, have darker skin, or prone to hyperpigmentation and scarring.
They are the lightest but still great in addressing these skin concerns:
Scarring
Textured skin
Fine lines and wrinkles
Acne
Improving elasticity in the skin
Hyperpigmentation
Superficial peels will target these skin concerns by penetrating the epidermis layer of the skin then break down this thick layer of dead skin cells to help in regenerating new cells. Even though superficial peels are the most reliable, it’s still important to know which chemical solutions work for your skin and what you’ll need to do after a treatment to keep your skin healthy. Obviously, the results aren’t as dramatic compared to more aggressive chemical peels, but the recovery will be more tolerable, the process less painful, and the results more reliable.
What to Expect: Before, During, and After
Before booking a chemical peel, it’s important you consult with your esthetician about what type of peel will be the best for your skin type. Don’t go off of a type of peel your friend or someone you follow on Instagram got. What worked for them will more likely not work for you. Our skin types are all different and will not always react the same way to the same products or treatments. In this case, one size does not fit all, so be safe and ask a professional.
In the days leading up to your appointment, it’s recommended not to use at-home chemical exfoliants. Using chemical exfoliants such as retinol or salicylic acid may overload the skin and result in more damage. Especially if you have sensitive skin, keep it simple leading up to your chemical peel date and pause on the chemical and physical exfoliants.
When receiving a professional chemical peel, expect more to this treatment than just applying a chemical solution. You will typically have a facial with an added chemical peel. Before the chemical solution is applied the skin will be cleansed and prepped. Once it’s time for the chemical peel, the solution will be brushed onto the skin and left on for a period of time. During the chemical exfoliation process, you’ll notice slight tingling in the areas applied. Compared to medium and deep peels, this feeling should not be painful or require the use of anesthetics or a cool compress. After this period of time, the solution is neutralized and removed, followed by a soothing product applied to the skin.
After this treatment you’ll need to take further precautions to not damage the skin barrier, making it more sensitive. In the superficial peel process, a layer of dead skin is shed to make way for new cells. This means that your skin is more sensitive to UV rays and you need to be vigilant in applying the right amount of sunscreen daily to avoid sun damage. It’s also helpful to have minimal sun exposure to further protect the skin. Neglecting to take these safety measures can result in serious sunburns and damage that can scar your skin and put you at higher risk for sun cancer. When doing your daily skin ritual, ensure that you’re using gentle products and cool water rather than using hot temperatures. Even if you didn’t get a chemical peel, you need to stop cleansing your face with hot water. Extreme heat can damage the skin’s protective barrier and strip your skin of its natural oils, leaving it drier, irritated, and uneven. Also, using gentler products and being sure to hydrate the skin will help in protecting the new skin barrier.
My Chemical Treatments
For my clients, I offer superficial glycolic and enzyme treatments. As I’ve said before I’m not a supporter of deeper peels due to the aggressiveness of the treatment and the dangers that come from that.
Now, what exactly are glycolic and enzyme treatments?
Glycolic Chemical Peel
Glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) that is derived from cane sugar or fruit sources and can penetrate deeper into the skin due to its smaller molecular structure. AHA is a water-soluble acid that is typically more suited for those with dry or aging skin and has concerns of sun damage, pigmentation, enlarged pores, and fine lines and wrinkles. Glycolic acid speeds up the cell turnover process that will give the skin a more youthful and glowy appearance. Glycolic peels can be offered at different strength levels and can be adjusted to your skin over time if needed.
If you’d like to learn more about AHAs or glycolic acid specifically, check out my past blog posts!
Enzyme Peel
Enzyme peels are one of the gentlest and safest skin treatments compared with chemical peels. What’s it made of? Enzyme peels are made up of the enzymes that are in fruits like pineapple, papaya, or pumpkin. Fruit enzymes have many medicinal and healing properties, proving them beneficial to the skin. These fruit enzymes dissolve into the skin, then in an exfoliation process remove the dead layer of skin cells to make way for new cells. Enzyme peels have anti-inflammatory properties making them favorable to sensitive skin. Just as you would with a superficial peel, there is no recovery time needed after an enzyme peel. You’ll experience slight tingling but once your session is over you can go about your day without feeling conscious if your face is beet red.
Have any other skin concerns or questions on peels? Reach out to me to address your skin needs.