Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliants

By now many of us have learned that exfoliation is a key factor in improving the appearance of our skin and helps us achieve that youthful glow and tone of the skin. Exfoliation works by ridding our skin of the layer of dead skin cells and making way for the skin cells to regenerate and keep the skin from looking dull and dry. However, with the increased knowledge and trends in the skincare world, it can be difficult to know whether it benefits us to use chemical exfoliation or physical exfoliation.

We want to give our largest organ (the skin) the same care and protection that it gives us. To understand the differences and help us figure out what works best for our skin types, we’ll dive into the details of both methods of exfoliation and what it is that they do.

Chemical Exfoliation 

If you’re one to keep up with the trends and popular products in skincare, you’ve most likely heard chemical exfoliants discussed quite often. Lately, it’s been deemed a long-hidden ‘holy grail’ product that is the solution to our skin issues. While that may sound a little dramatic, it is one of the important steps to take when solving skin concerns. Typically, chemical exfoliants are products such as leave-on or wash off beta or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs). 

Our skin barrier has a layer of dead skin cells that shed and regenerate regularly through a process called desquamation. This top layer of the skin is prone to becoming too thick resulting in dullness and dryness of the skin. To help the shedding process faster, chemical exfoliation aids in breaking down the thick layer of dead skin cells and help cells regenerate more indirectly compared to using a physical exfoliant. Using chemical exfoliation can result in a more glowing appearance of the skin and increase elasticity. While we know it can improve the appearance and feel of our skin, it remains unclear specifically how it stimulates cell regeneration. 

Before using a chemical exfoliant, you need to understand which acid and its ingredients target and benefit your skin type. We often just go with what is popular and what trendy product is being raved about the most but it’s vital to stick with what works for your skin type to avoid further irritating the skin.

AHAs and BHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliators that target different skin concerns and many of us are unaware how many AHA or BHA products we have in our skincare ritual. 

AHA is a water-soluble acid that is usually more suited toward those with dry or aging skin who want help with the appearance of sun damage, pigmentation, enlarged pores, and fine lines or wrinkles. The most well known AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid. Lactic acid is made from milk or other plant sources that are fermented or soured to give us this acid that can increase the skin’s natural moisturizing factor, increase barrier function, and build hydration. Glycolic acid, a relatively new acid to skincare, is derived from cane sugar or fruit sources that can penetrate the deepest and quickest out of the other AHAs. It appeals the most to those concerned with hyperpigmentation, acne, textured, and aging skin.

BHA is an oil-soluble acid that benefits acne-prone skin types as it can penetrate deeper into the pores and remove dead skin cells and sebum. It’s found to help with acne, blackheads, and excess oil. The commonly known BHA is salicylic acid, made from willow tree bark and can reduce oil, therefore, benefiting oily skin types. It has an anti-inflammatory action that regulates inflammatory irritants then reduces the chance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or scarring. 

When using acids, they can cause sun sensitivity meaning you must wear sunscreen when using these products to prevent wrinkles and pigmentation. When using a stronger product it’s only necessary to use about 2-3 times a week to keep from irritating and sensitizing the skin. Chemical exfoliants are great products when used correctly and with the right product. If used incorrectly or with the wrong product, it can cause more damage to the skin. 

(Read more about chemicals in skincare from the last blog post!)

Physical Exfoliation

For years when thinking about exfoliation and the method to buff away dead skin, physical exfoliation with tools and scrubs or grains were the first to come to mind. However, with the rising popularity of chemical exfoliants and the shorter amount of work it seemingly takes, physical exfoliants have often received a reputation for being irritating and harsh to the skin. Yes, physical exfoliation can be harsh but only if done incorrectly and aggressively. 

This method is done by buffing away dead skin by hand using products with grains or tools (brush, facecloth, or sponge). The friction from the grain or tools in repeated gentle circular motions allows the dead skin to lift. Physical exfoliation only improves the top layer of the skin unlike penetrating deep into the skin. 

Ensure that the tool or grain product being used isn’t too abrasive and that you’re using them gently rather than harshly rubbing into the skin. It’s common for many to scrub their face raw when using physical exfoliants because of a need to feel instant results of exfoliating. Do not do this to your skin! Aggressively scrubbing your face can result in irritating the skin and make your skin worse in the long run. When physically exfoliating and exfoliating in general, you only need to do so 2-3 times a week.

When choosing which physical tool to use it’s best to use a gentle grainy product for physical exfoliation as some tools can lead people to over-scrub and irritate their skin. To avoid microtears in the skin, use grains small enough compared to one with nutshells that would be too large and harmful to the skin. Microtears can weaken the skin’s barrier, making skin prone to dryness, redness, and sensitize the skin. I also recommend avoiding products that use plastic microbeads. When plastic microbeads are drained and go through the waterways, toxins latch onto them leading aquatic animals to consume them and release those toxins. These environmental pollutants may look small but they do a lot of damage to our environment and its creatures.